Entrudo Chocalheiro-Caretos de Podence　（Carnival of Podence-Winter festivities)

Every winter, the small northern Portuguese village of Podence explodes with color, sound, and mischievous energy. Entrudo Chocalheiro (the Carnival of Podence) is a living folk ritual, now recognized as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, where masked youths called Caretos race through the streets, cowbells clanging, woolen fringes flying, and laughter echoing in the cold air. It’s a wild celebration bidding farewell to winter and welcoming the fertility and renewal of spring.

The festival runs for three days, from “Fat Sunday” to Shrove Tuesday. Locals, tourists, and families gather to experience the Caretos’ playful chaos, the village’s infectious energy, and hearty traditional food. For anyone seeking authentic Portuguese culture or a taste of a wilder, older Europe, this is the ultimate carnival experience.

Caretos: The Mischievous Parade of Masks and Cowbells

Traditional Food and Local Spirits

The Carnival of Podence (Entrudo Chocalheiro) is one of Europe’s oldest mask festivals, rooted in the Trás-os-Montes region of northeast Portugal. Its origins trace back to ancient Celtic and Roman times, and perhaps even the Neolithic era, as a pagan ritual marking the end of winter and the arrival of spring, praying for abundance and fertility. The Caretos, masked youths, symbolized ancestor worship and agricultural magic, upending village order and unleashing the “devil” for a few days. Their masked anonymity and wild antics embodied vitality and the start of a new cycle.

For generations, the festival served as a rite of passage for young men and a communal celebration of surviving winter and wishing for spring’s prosperity. The Caretos, as agents of chaos, represented the only time of year when mischief and freedom were allowed, symbolizing renewal. Even during periods of dictatorship and social change, when the festival was banned or threatened, villagers secretly preserved the tradition. In 1985, the Caretos Association was established, opening participation to women and children.

Today, the Caretos tradition is a source of pride and identity for the village, officially recognized as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2019. The festival runs for three days, with Caretos parading through the village, comedic plays, mock weddings, and the burning of the straw effigy-all ancient rituals reimagined for modern times. The Casa do Careto museum preserves the history and artistry of the masks, serving as a hub for cultural preservation and tourism.

The Carnival of Podence is not just entertainment; it is a living heritage, embodying the village’s history, beliefs, and communal spirit. New generations join as facanitos (child Caretos), learning the songs and rituals, and people from near and far participate, ensuring that the festival remains vibrant and full of life.

As a first-time visitor, the moment I stepped into the village, I was swept up by the vivid colors of the Caretos’ fringes and the wild clanging of cowbells. One Careto “caught” me, and we laughed as we ran together through the cobbled streets. By the bonfire in the square, I shared sausage and bean stew with locals and toasted with aguardente. At night, the sound of drums and folk music, and the sight of Caretos dancing in the firelight, felt truly magical-like stepping into a fairy tale I’ll never forget.

• Caretos costumes are hand-made and can weigh up to 10 kg.
• Being “rattled” with cowbells is believed to bring good luck and fertility for the year.
• The Casa do Careto museum in the village showcases the history and artistry of the masks and costumes.

Entrudo Chocalheiro (the Carnival of Podence) is held every year from Fat Sunday to Shrove Tuesday in the village of Podence. Arrive early, dive into the colors and energy, and experience one of Europe’s wildest and most authentic carnivals.