Corsa dei Ceri　（Festa dei Ceri）

Name: Corsa dei Ceri （Festa dei Ceri）
Start: 2025-05-14
Location: Gubbio

Centuries-old Tradition Weaving Faith, Strength, and Community Spirit

The Corsa dei Ceri, held annually on May 15th in the small town of Gubbio in Italy's central Umbria region, is more than just a tourist event; it's the very soul of the town. This medieval town, nestled among deep green mountains, experiences its most fervent day of the year. Known also as the "Race of the Candles," the festival centers around three enormous wooden structures called "Ceri" (candles), each standing 5 meters tall and weighing 300 kilos. These are carried by local men divided into three teams - yellow, blue, and black. Dressed in medieval costumes, they honor their patron saints by literally racing these giant wooden structures from the town center to a church atop the mountain. This spectacle has remained largely unchanged for 900 years, dating back to the 12th century. With over 100,000 spectators crowding the narrow alleys and squares, the Corsa dei Ceri offers a glimpse into the heart of Italian culture, where ancient traditions, raw human strength, and unwavering faith intersect. This day is dedicated to Saint Ubaldo, Gubbio's patron saint, and is a holiday unique to Gubbio in all of Italy.

Main Attractions

Raising of the Ceri

At noon on May 15th, the Piazza Grande becomes the epicenter of excitement. As the air thickens with anticipation, the crowd watches breathlessly as three enormous wooden structures, each weighing over 280kg and standing 5 meters tall, are raised vertically. These are the Ceri, symbolizing Saints Ubaldo, Giorgio, and Antonio. The sound of the structures scraping against the cobblestones sends shivers down spines, while the cheers of the crowd reverberate off the medieval buildings surrounding the square.

Once upright, the Ceri face their first challenge: three laps around the square. The ceraioli (candle bearers) strain under the weight as they navigate through the tightly packed crowd. The faces of the men carrying the Ceri are contorted with effort, while spectators cheer loudly in support.

The Mad Dash Through Town

After the raising ceremony, the real spectacle begins. At 6 pm sharp, the race starts. The men carrying the Ceri charge through the narrow, cobblestone streets of Gubbio. The onlookers watch with intense eyes, cheering as if they themselves were participating. As the teams navigate hairpin turns and steep inclines, the scent of sweat and determination fills the air.

The route, spanning about 4 kilometers, takes the teams through the heart of Gubbio and up the punishing slope of Mount Ingino. As they ascend, the smell of wild herbs and flowers from the surrounding countryside creates a stark contrast to the intensity of the race below.

Vibrant Costumes and Decorations

The Corsa dei Ceri is a feast for the eyes. Each team sports distinct colors: yellow for Saint Ubaldo, blue for Saint Giorgio, and black for Saint Antonio. The ceraioli wear traditional white trousers, red sashes, and colored shirts corresponding to their saint. The streets of Gubbio are festooned with flags and banners in these colors, creating a kaleidoscope effect as the teams race by.

Atop each Cero sits a statue of the respective saint, adorned with flowers and ribbons. These statues sway precariously as the Ceri are carried, adding to the drama and spectacle of the event.

Festive Food and Drink

The Festa dei Ceri is not just a feast for the eyes but for the palate as well. The aroma of traditional Umbrian cuisine wafts through the streets, tempting spectators and participants alike. Crescia (a type of flatbread), seasoned with herbs and stuffed with local cheeses and cured meats, is a popular street food during the festival.

Try the local traditional dish "Brustengolo". This simple pizza-like food with thin, crispy dough topped with prosciutto and salami is a 2000-year-old tradition. The salty taste that permeates your tired body and the scent of rosemary mixed in the dough deepens the afterglow of the festival.

As the day progresses, the clinking of wine glasses becomes more frequent. Enjoying Brustengolo with local wine will make the day's excitement even more vivid in your memory. The robust flavors of local Umbrian wines, such as Sagrantino di Montefalco, complement the hearty fare. After the race, participants and spectators alike indulge in a traditional dish called baccalà alla ceraiola, a savory codfish preparation that helps restore energy after the day's exertions.

Cultural and Historical Background

The origins of the Corsa dei Ceri are shrouded in mystery, with some accounts tracing it back to the 12th century. The most widely accepted story links the festival to the death of Bishop Ubaldo Baldassini in 1160. Legend has it that his body was carried intact to the top of Mount Ingino, a feat commemorated annually through the race.

This festival symbolizes the passion, faith, and community bonds of the people of Gubbio. This tradition, which has continued unchanged for 900 years, seems to have not faded in modern society, but rather increased in value. For the people of Gubbio, the Festa dei Ceri is far more than a tourist attraction; it's a fundamental part of their identity. Participation in the race is often a family tradition, passed down through generations. The festival embodies the community's values of strength, faith, and unity. It's a time when social barriers dissolve, and the entire town comes together in a display of collective effort and shared heritage.

The race itself is rich in symbolism. The Ceri, despite their name meaning "candles," are not actually candles but represent the devotion of the people to their patron saints. The fact that Saint Ubaldo's Cero always finishes first is a nod to his status as the city's primary patron, reflecting the hierarchical nature of medieval society that still echoes in modern Gubbio.

Participant Voices

During my trip to Italy, I unexpectedly encountered the "Festa dei Ceri" in Gubbio. Who would have thought this would become the highlight of my journey! The whole town was enveloped in an electric atmosphere, and I was completely swept up in it. I found myself cheering for Saint Antonio's team because I liked their black shirts, when a local elderly man next to me spoke up. "You seem quite enthusiastic," he said. He then explained to me the meaning of the race, what the festival was like in the old days, and how it has changed over the years. By the time the giant "Ceri" were raised in Piazza Grande, I no longer felt like just a tourist. I felt like I had become part of this special moment. While the race itself was thrilling, what left an even deeper impression on me was the bond between the people of this town and the weight of tradition that has been passed down through generations. It's sure to be an unforgettable experience that will stay with me for life.

Fun Facts

Despite their name meaning "candles," the Ceri are not actually candles but octagonal wooden pillars topped with statues of the saints.
The race is not really a competition - Saint Ubaldo's team always finishes first, followed by Saint Giorgio, and then Saint Antonio.
The Ceri are so heavy that the bearers must change every 50-100 meters during the race.
There's a smaller version of the race held on June 2nd called the Ceri Piccoli, where children carry miniature versions of the Ceri.